June in Alaska
June in Alaska
Something new everyday, my first month in Alaska has been an interesting one, chalked full of randomness, exciting new experiences, and often times a bit strange. Such is the eb and flow in the last frontier. Listed below are some of the most significant points of interest or at least have made my personal journal. Enjoy.
Photos: Lodge Truck (El Red Dangler), Mt. Tiekel, a typical Alaskan truck bed, and a morning sunrise in the Wrangell St.-Elias National Park.
Upon my arrival in late May, my second day in-state was spent driving to Anchorage only to spend three days in the emergency room and two nights in the intensive care unit. The first time admitted to the ER with a temperature of 104.5, I was only released hours later after testing negative for repeated examinations of strep throat and mono. Apparently the doctor, originally from Clarion, Iowa, a neighboring town of where I grew up, thought it would be prudent to discharge me despite the high fever and my plees to inform him that I still couldn’t swallow anything consumable or liquid. Alas, Dr. Clarion was wrong, and I was again admitted to the emergency room the next morning.
A new and apparently more intelligent Doctor discovered via x-rays and other devices I cannot pronounce that my throat was so blistered that it was swelling completely shut, in addition to being extremely dehydrated and still maintaining a high fever. A throat and mouth surgeon was then involved probing me in ways I care not to explain with such instrunments that also go beyond explanation. Alas, after three days, numerous instruments attached and inserted into my body, steroids, antibiotics, less than edible food, rest, and over fifteen saline bags, it was obvious that I would survive.
I was semi-charged by a mother moose on a solo kayaking run of the Tiekel River. While this has been explained in my previous post, a few more notable moments of clarity should be mentioned. Moose kill more people annually in Alaska than bears. Of these attacks, a large majority are mother Moose (Cows) protecting their offspring (calves). While a bear might maul and eat a human, moose will just charge one, kicking the ever living bejesus out of the victim with their prehistoric and powerful hind legs. Whereas bear spray/deterrent is widely available and used by many, a market niche is still out there for Moose spray. Perhaps guns have already taken this role, but for those that wish to not carry a firearm into the wild, this could be the ticket. As I sat on the bank of the other side of the river with my puny spray canister, waiting for Momma to further her charge, I realized that I was nothing compared to mother nature, and that Alaskan wildlife, unlike any place I’ve been previous, can and will kill me if so desired. In the case of bears, can, will and EAT me is added to the equation. Compiled together, that’s a pretty mentality stout concept to comprehend when out in the backcountry.
Momma moose coming at me on the Tiekel River.
Piggybacking off the moose incident, a Columbian motorcyclist actually struck a Cow moose on the road a quarter mile down from the lodge. This great story is purely Alaskan in nature. The man, trapped in-front of a oncoming semi and also followed by one, had to make a choice of either hitting the gargantuan beast head-on, drive into woods at high speed, or risk being run over by the semis. Ultimately, he opted with option one, breaking both her legs, himself being ejected into the ditch with his bike, only to be shaken up without damage to his body whatsoever. His bike was literally destroyed, the moose’s head was blown off moments later by the excited gun-toting semi drivers, and he lay there in the ditch for a few hours chatting with Alaskan state troopers about the accident. Apparently, he’s the third man in Alaskan history to hit a moose (this one totaled over 2,000lbs) and live.
Having paid exorborant airlines fees to bring up my boat, I’m proud to announce that I’ve whitewater kayaked on five rivers in the region, the Tiekel, Tosina, Tsaina, Klutina, and the Lowe. All have been remarkedly beautiful sections of river complete with ultra-scenic typical views of mountains, wildlife, glaciers and waterfalls. Boating up here has been a bit different in terms of volume of water, access, and technicalities, but has been a pleasant change of pace none-the-less. While none of the runs have been my personal preference of class V due to rivers of such nature and issues with finding any other kayakers, I’ve been fortunate enough to get with the local rafting company, Keystone Rafting. Great people, great water, good times.
Photos: Landslide on the Tonsina River and my new kayaking partner.
Sea-kayaking in the Prince William Sound with local guiding friends was also an amazing June experience. The beauty of the experience and the sound cannot simply be described by words. Imagine fjords, porpoises, sea otters, sea lions, beautiful aqua blue water, and the icebergs from the calving Columbia glacier. The experience was second to none, and I think Dan described it best telling me, “That was the most amazing thing I’ve ever done in my life.”
Photos: Columbia Glacier, Dan and I boating in the icebergs, and some sea-lions hogging the buoy.
Paul, our illustrious lodge chef was let go last week. Issues with ordering, organization, and attitude resulted in the termination. A demand of a raise to the owners and an shock on Paul’s behalf when the request was turned down and the termination processed leaves the lodge now without an “official” cook, which probably is for the better seeing that Paul’s menu was basic to say the least and that Dan, Trixie, and I have already impressed ourselves in addition to others with our revolutionized combined culinary skills.
Last night, I was shocked to see an Alaska’s finest at the door. Asking for Trixie Hamilton, the officer apparently had a warrant for her arrest. Without incident and story, Trixie is now residing in the Glennallen jail for an unknown amount of time. Dan and I equally have our speculations but are still unsure of the real reason why she was put away. Thankfully, she was released a day later for not having attended a DWI class.
Fishing in Alaska is probably about as serious as it gets. Daily reportings of King Salmon movements, Halibut tournaments in every city, and thousands of people living off the fishing tourism industry make this place absolutely nuts about casting. The term, “Combat Fishing,” where hundreds of fisherman line up shoulder to shoulder along a river bank in hopes of catching salmon, was coined here. Drive along most rivers near the coast and you’ll be sure to see signs of how nuts Alaska is on it’s fishing.
Deciding to give the local craze a try, I partnered up with a few guiding friends up the valley where we floated fourteen miles of the class III Klutina river in search of scores of spawning King Salmon. It was a beautiful way to fish; bobbing down rapids, pulling out at eddies, and fishing from shore. After blue bird full day on the river we ended up having five King’s on, brought in three, and caught one red Sockeye salmon. All in all it was an experience I’ll never forget and one I hope to continue on a monthly basis while the salmon run. Also catching my interest where the salmon, never will one find a more intelligent fish. Inquire for yourself, they’re extremely interesting.
Photos: Yet to molt Red Sockeye, Brandon with a nice King, and the boys getting gnarly on the Klutina River.
Aside from being lost on “trails” numerous times and the typical Alaskan ho-hum, life is pretty laid back here in Tiekel Valley, the beauty of the Chugach is still ridiculously stunning, the neighbors are as kind as they are strange, and the wildlife still seems to let one know where human beings stand in the wild.
Photos: A busy Tiekel Lodge, DD in AK, Ben cleaning out the Tonsina River, a political statement, and an Alaskan cooler. (that’s Columbia glacier ice)
